18th century bum roll

Ok, you know how I was in an 18th century mood a month ago? Well, it's back!

  I'll be sewing a dress soon, c.1774 ish, based off of this pattern. I wish I could tell you the color, but I don't know if the specific shade will be there in the right fabric. So for now, that's all the description I'll give.

However, I have been sewing a bum roll, inspired by the one here (option w/out flange), here (scroll down),  and here. What's interesting is that it's called both a bum roll and a bustle pad. "Bum roll" almost sounds like a name we made up in the 20th or 21st century. "Bustle pad" sounds incorrect; the only thing close to bustles in that century were called polonaises. So I'll call it a bum roll. It sounds more correct.

Also: it is listed as 16th or 17th century in a few places... yet it looks like they did use bum rolls often later in the 18th century.

So here's my first try. I drafted  my own pattern, and, knowing I'd want to change a few things, I did a mock up out of that old duvet cover Grandma gave me. The mock up was stuffed with scraps of fabric I'll never use.

Somehow the fabric ended up being inside out... but it was a mock up. I didn't waste the time fixing it.

Here it is, after I removed the ties to put on the finished bum roll.

Here's the front veiw. I realized that the sides were too full and thick, so I fixed the pattern. (I'm wearing it over the only petticoat I have at the moment and my 18th century nightgown.... I don't have an accurate petticoat or chemise yet. This is how the bum roll will look under my dress, though.)

The side veiw. Not bad.

Back veiw. Just not.... right....it looks really wide.....

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Half an hour later.

I was going to sew it out of some off white fabric. But, I confess: I really liked the colors and patterns on the mock up! So, I sewed it out of the same fabric.

Front veiw.

Side view. I'm almost wondering if it's a bit too full in the back.... but if I decide it is, it can be fixed.

Back veiw. (wow, my sleeves are crooked! They've got an elastic casing in them and are prone to being different lengths :)

Have a nice day!!
Celine